I ate Rudolph - and she was delicious! (But don't tell the grandkids)
From reindeer cheese to blueberry juice - Norwegian cuisine is fresh, tasty, and at times, surprising.
Who milks reindeer?
It started innocently enough. While exploring the array of Norwegian delicacies aboard the Hurtigruten Coastal Ferry, a tray of smoked reindeer cheese caught my eye.
Wait—reindeer cheese?
Who knew reindeer could be milked?
From antlers to hooves
After all, I’ve never heard of people milking deer, elk, or moose.
But in Scandinavia, where the native Sami people have thrived for centuries, every single part of the reindeer is used, from antlers to hooves.
And yes, this resourcefulness includes milking reindeer. Female reindeer yield only about one and a half cups of milk each, making it a rare and labor-intensive resource.
By the way, only the female reindeer have antlers in winter. This means Rudolph of red-nosed fame is actually a girl.
According to Danilo, a crew member who once lived with a Sami tribe, “Reindeer milk only tastes good if you grew up drinking it. Otherwise, it’s disgusting.”
Fortunately, reindeer cheese was another story—it was delightful, reminiscent of smoked cheddar.
From there, my culinary adventure escalated. I sampled reindeer sausage, reindeer stew, and, eventually, the pièce de résistance: reindeer steak.
Cooked medium rare, it was tender, flavorful, and utterly superb.
Reindeer guilt trip
When I told a fellow passenger about my foray into reindeer cuisine, she gasped, “You ate Rudolph? How could you?”
She wasn’t joking. “I couldn’t do it. What will you tell your grandkids?” she added, shaking her head.
Although I think my grandkids would understand, I must confess that I haven’t mentioned “eating Rudolph” to them yet.
The food aboard the Hurtigruten Coastal Ferry was consistently fresh and delicious. I especially enjoyed the variety of cheeses paired with hearty, seed-filled crackers called knekkebrød.
As for meats, in addition to reindeer, I also sampled elk and was impressed by its rich, earthy flavor.
Craving cold drinks?
Oddly enough, the Arctic Circle’s dry air left us parched much of the time. Plus, Larry and I were surprised by how often we craved cold drinks—even on the chilliest days.
One unexpected favorite was blåbærdrikk, a refreshing blueberry juice. Packed with nutrients, it’s long been a staple for Norwegians, who relied on all sorts of berries not just for flavor, but to ward off scurvy during harsh winters.
Our meals often included elderberries, cloud berries, raspberries and currants. Berries are my favorite fruit, so this was a real treat!
Aquavit aka “water of life”
Of course, no trip to Norway would be complete without sampling aquavit, the country’s iconic spirit. Originally crafted as a medicinal remedy, this “water of life” is traditionally sipped during Christmas celebrations.
Aquavit’s unique flavor comes from caraway seeds. (As mentioned in “My Arctic Circle Sacrifice,” I enjoyed a shot of aquavit after the god Njord baptised me with icy water.)
Secret ingredient? Serendipity
Norwegian aquavit is unique for its production process: barrels of the spirit are shipped on ocean voyages that cross the equator twice. The constant rolling of the ship, combined with shifts in temperature and humidity, enhances its flavor in a way no land-bound aging process could replicate.
As you can see in the photo above, the labels even tell you how many months that particular batch has been at sea.
Like so many culinary creations, this process was discovered by mistake. When a ship load of aquavit was sent to Australia, the Ozzies did not like the flavor, so they sent it back. By the time it returned to Norway, however, the liqueur’s taste had improved so much that the Norwegians decided to drink it themselves.
Pares well with Polar Night
As we continued our voyage, each meal became an exploration of Norway's rich culinary traditions, from the hearty stews inspired by the rugged terrain to the delicate seafood dishes reflecting the bountiful seas.
Combined with the Northern Lights and the eerieness of the Polar Night, the Hurtigruten Costal Ferry’s exceptional cuisine made our journey an unforgettable feast for the senses.