Saudade Flowers: A Symbol of Yearning
In Portugal, saudade is more than an emotion, it’s an identity that permeates the arts, literature— and even its cemeteries.
Looks like a thistle
The first time I visited Lisbon’s historic burial ground, Cemitério dos Prazeres, I noticed a curious motif engraved on many of the headstones. It looked remarkably like a thistle—a design I had often seen in other cemeteries as a symbol of Scottish ancestry.
The thistle, after all, is Scotland’s national emblem.
But something about its presence here didn’t sit right with me. Lisbon isn’t exactly a hub of Scottish heritage, so I made a mental note to investigate further.
Insights from Gisela Monteiro
Fast forward to last year, when I had the privilege of meeting Gisela Monteiro, a taphophile extraordinaire and true expert on cemetery architecture. Gisela, who had recently completed her Master’s thesis on the subject, graciously offered to take Larry and me on a whirlwind tour of Cemitério dos Prazeres.
It was an unforgettable experience, and I learned so much —especially about the symbols and motifs that puzzled me on my previous visit.
Not a Thistle
One of the most enlightening discoveries that day was the meaning behind the engraving I had mistaken for a thistle. According to Gisela, that’s a common error.
In fact, so many others have misidentified the saudade flower as a thistle that this erroneous idea has been passed along in numerous books and articles on cemetery symbolism.
Oops!
Saudade Flower
Gisela explained that it wasn’t a thistle at all, but rather the saudade flower, a deeply Portuguese symbol of sorrow and longing. She even walked us through a marvelous exhibit she helped create called Flores de Pedra/ Flowers in Stone. (She also kindly gave me a copy of the exposition’s accompanying book that she helped write. It’s beautifully made and a great reference.)
No English Word for Saudade
The word “saudade” has no direct English equivalent. According to Dictionary.com, saudade describes "a sad state of intense longing for someone or something that is absent." It is a profound and complex emotion that plays a significant role in Portuguese culture, often expressed through its music, poetry, and literature.
Gisela’s explanation opened my eyes to the artistic and cultural depth of the saudade flower. For instance, when the saudade flower is paired with the curry flower—also known as eternitea—the combination symbolizes eternal sorrow and yearning. The curry flower, with its reputation for longevity, enhances the message of remembrance and unending love. (You can seem an example of this in the photo at the top of this post.)
In Portugal, saudade is more than an emotion—it’s practically an identity. From the mournful strains of fado music to their poetry and art, saudade is woven into the country’s cultural fabric. It permeates the arts, literature, and, as I now understand, even its cemeteries.
Saudade on Madeira
So, the other day, when Larry and I visited a historic cemetery in Madeira, I couldn’t help but smile when I spotted a few headstones engraved with saudade flowers. It felt like seeing an old friend in a new place. And while I still grapple with the full depth of the Portuguese concept of saudade, at least I know it has nothing to do with Scotland or thistles!
The unexpected sight of saudade also brought to mind the exciting prospect of visiting Gisela in Lisbon again this spring. I’m eager to learn more from her vast knowledge and deep passion for cemetery art.
And, of course, I look forward to visiting a cafe with her, too, where we can savor a pastel de nata or two while diving deeper into the enduring links between cemetery symbols and the stories they tell.
p.s. For some reason, my camera malfunctioned in Funchal’s cemetery, so the only photo of the saudade engravings there is the one above. Grrr! So frustrating.