Cabo San Lucas: El Arco
Where Jacques Cousteau explored "the aquarium of the world" I found a lively blend of nature and commerce. (Oh, and lots of whales!)
Cabo San Lucas is a tender port, meaning you can’t just walk off the ship onto a dock. Instead, the ship’s lifeboats ferry passengers ashore in small groups, a process that can sometimes take several hours.
While waiting our turn in a shady spot on the stern, we were treated to an incredible sight—humpback whales! They weren’t close enough for me to get decent photos, but watching them was a majestic experience. Jacques Cousteau once called the nearby Sea of Cortez “the aquarium of the world,” so I suppose all this sea life shouldn’t have come as a surprise.
What did surprise me about Cabo San Lucas, having never been there before, was how closely the wildlife interacts with humans. As our tender made its way into port, we spotted pelicans, sea lions, fish, and even more whales.
Some sea lions hopped right onto the transoms of fishing boats, hoping for scraps, while pelicans perched on motors or boat rails, keeping a sharp eye out for handouts. It was clear they saw the fishermen as meal tickets.
Meanwhile, the locals who make their home in this semi-arid region depend on tourism for survival. I found it fascinating—tourists, locals, fish, sea lions, pelicans, whales—all converging in the same space, each pursuing their own goals.
There was no clear separation; everything was mixed together in a lively, chaotic, yet oddly harmonious dance of life and commerce.
For just $20, we took a glass-bottom boat tour out to the stunning rock formations rising from the shoreline. The famous arch, known as El Arco or Land’s End, marks the dramatic spot where the Pacific Ocean meets the Sea of Cortez.
Our guide even took us to a rocky formation with a keyhole-like opening, giving us a framed view of the Pacific from our vantage point in the Sea of Cortez.
Along the way, we spotted more whales, though once again, I didn’t manage to capture them on camera. Some moments in life are just meant to be enjoyed and remembered—you can’t catch everything on film.
Our guides, on the other hand, laughed and told us that if we enjoy seeing whales and dolphins, we should come back in April because, “this is not many right now.” While we don’t care much for the super-touristy bars and resorts, I must admit I found myself daydreaming about a longer visit when even more sea life is in the area.
After our boat trip, Larry and I wandered through the shady market stalls, practicing our Spanish and picking up a few handmade treasures, including a colorful purse and dress.
Unlike some tourist areas we’ve visited, there wasn’t an obvious police presence, though I did notice one marina officer dressed head-to-toe in camo, a rifle casually slung over his arm.
Back on the cruise ship, we enjoyed a breathtaking sunset sail away. Once again, El Arco provided a dramatic backdrop, bathed in golden light as the sun spilled across the sea.
And, of course, we saw more whales — but no photos, of course!