Putting the Fun in Funchal
Pastries, Mosaics, Pointy Hats, and Penis, the Musical? (How did we forget to try the wine?)
Larry and I put the “fun” in “Funchal” today—or at least our version of fun, which involved plenty of aimless wandering, sampling local pastries at an outdoor café, and, of course, a visit to a historic cemetery (but I’ll save that story for another post.)
Another HOHO
Our adventure began on a Hop-on-Hop-off (HOHO) bus. Yes, it’s touristy, but we don’t pretend to be locals, and HOHOs are a fun way to get an overview of a new destination.
As we rolled through Funchal, the capital of Madeira, our bus treated us to lush views of steep hills blanketed with banana trees and colorful flowers. The island is famous for its flowers. Even in January, some plants and trees graved the landscape with splashes of pink, red, and orange.
Portuguese Influences
Although Madeira is an island off the coast of Africa, it is part of Portugal, and this connection is evident in its culture, language, and architecture. Madeira’s primary language is Portuguese, so Larry and I made an effort to greet shopkeepers with a cheerful “Bom dia” and express our thanks with “obrigada” (for me) or “obrigado” (for Larry.)
While many locals speak English fluently, we always make a point to learn and use basic phrases in the native language when we travel. It’s a small gesture, but it often brings a smile and helps us feel more connected to the local culture.
Mosaic Walkways
Like mainland Portugal, Madeira’s streets are adorned with intricate black-and-white mosaic designs, a hallmark of Portuguese craftsmanship. These patterns aren’t just decorative; they tell a story of tradition and artistry, with each stone carefully placed to create mesmerizing geometric or floral motifs.
In the most heavily trafficked areas, the stones are polished to such a high sheen that they resemble indoor floor tiles more than outdoor walkways. In steep areas, this can be precarious.
Madeira’s Wine
The HOHO bus commentary was filled with tidbits about Madeira’s history and culture. One of my favorite facts? George Washington raised a glass of Madeira wine to toast America’s independence from Britain.
Madeira’s famous wine is woven into history, though, ironically, we forgot that our HOHO tickets included a free wine tasting. So, I can’t comment on its modern-day appeal—perhaps next time!
Pastel de Nata
While wandering through Funchal, we made time for a stop at a charming sidewalk café, where we indulged in espresso and pastel de nata. This iconic Portuguese pastry is a delicate tart filled with creamy egg custard and surrounded by a flaky, buttery crust.
Centuries ago, Portuguese monks used egg whites to starch their robes, leaving behind a surplus of yolks. As a creative solution, they turned those leftovers into delicious desserts like pastel de nata.
The ones we had in Funchal were especially fresh—still warm from the oven, thanks to the baker’s brisk business with cruise ship tourists. They were absolutely divine, the kind of treat that makes you want to order seconds.
Farmers Markets and Folk Dancing
Another highlight of the day was Funchal’s bustling farmers market. It was a feast for the eyes, filled with vibrant fruits and vegetables we couldn’t even name, let alone figure out how to eat. The market had an energetic atmosphere that made exploring it an adventure in itself.
Later, we stumbled upon a traditional Madeiran song and dance demonstration in a small plaza. The performers wore colorful costumes. Their pointy hats were particularly eye-catching—almost whimsical. Their rhythmic dances and cheerful songs were an intriguing glimpse into the island’s heritage.
Penis - the Musical?
One of the day’s more peculiar moments came courtesy of the city’s electronic billboards. As we wandered, I kept catching glimpses of an ad that flashed the word “Penis” in bold letters before quickly switching to something mundane, like shoes or perfumes.
Naturally, this piqued my curiosity. After some effort (and snickering), I managed to snap a photo of the billboard. It turns out the ad was promoting a musical called “Penis.” I’m not sure what the storyline is, but the bold advertising certainly caught my eye.
Don’t forget the wine!
From warm pastries and flower-lined streets to a vibrant market and traditional folk dances, our day in Funchal offered an eclectic blend of experiences. Of course, if you ever visit Madeira, I’m sure you’ll put your own “fun” in Funchal.
Just don’t forget to try the wine, as we did!